Among Armenia’s most interesting attractions are its stunning landscapes, Lake Sevan, the Khachkar field (Armenian cross-stones), caravanserais, the ancient Zoratskar observatory, the modern Wings of Tatev (the world’s longest reversible aerial tramway measuring 5.7 km or 3.5 mi), the Cave village of Khndzoresk with its 160-metre long suspension bridge, and lots more.
Explore the charm of forgotten masterpieces
However, the highlight of Armenia to many travellers is the ancient Christian monasteries and churches. While most buildings are long abandoned and almost forgotten, they are masterpieces of art, located in some very tranquil and scenic locations. I visited many of them. Here is my story…
Why travel to Armenia’s Monasteries?
- The low-down: Armenia is an interesting country and if you are into historic monasteries and churches, you will not only enjoy the architecture but also the tranquillity in and around these ancient buildings. While some buildings are still in use, others are abandoned and almost forgotten.
- The brightest highlight: Every monastery and church are different in design, in location, in its atmosphere, and in every aspect. Try to visit them all.
- Intrepid destination: While some monasteries are at the top of every visitor’s list and can get busy in high season, the more obscure and less-visited ones are spectacular in their own way. Generally, Armenia is not very touristy and neither are most of these monasteries.
- Globerovers score (10 is highest): I have visited many of Armenia’s ancient monasteries and churches. I’ll give it a 9 out of 10.
Table of Contents
Visiting Armenia’s Christian Monasteries
Armenian people are not exactly thrilled when foreign tourists only come to see their ancient monasteries and churches. “Please, there is a lot more to Armenia than our old monasteries”, proclaims a frustrated local resident of Yerevan. “Why is it that the only thing tourists ask about is where the famous monasteries are”? Well, I felt bitterly guilty because that was also all I cared about. I had heard so much about the monasteries and that was the reason why I was here in Armenia.
I entered Armenia by mini-bus from Tbilisi, the Georgian capital. It was a full day’s drive to Yerevan, capital of Armenia. I only had three days before I was scheduled to fly over to Sharjah in the United Arab Emirates on Air Arabia. My tight schedule was well planned in advance. A day in Yerevan and two days of monasteries. Nothing else. I did the monasteries and was totally amazed. The highlight was Geghard Monastery (more about this monastery later).
About 40 km east of Yerevan in Armenia’s Kotayk Province, not far from the town of Garni, the public bus dropped me off at the village of Garni, known for the Garni Temple. From here it was a pleasant 10 km hike to the Geghard Monastery at the end of a dusty road.
Halfway I came across cherry heaven. I was smack in the best time of the cherry season. Tens of cherry trees covered in black-red cherries were hanging, to breaking point, over the public road. I reckoned, what hangs in pubic territory belongs to the people. I snacked away on 1,162 cherries.
As I was lying in bed that night, I was wondering if there really was anything more to Armenia than its monasteries.
When I arrived at the airport I was informed that an email was sent to me the previous day about the cancellation of the flight. Come back four days later, I was told.
More monasteries, I thought. And so it was. Five more monasteries, including, once again, Geghard Monastery for another 865 cherries. A second visit to Geghard also allowed me to take another 232 photos and to explore the surrounding forest and crystal clear streams of water.
Back to the airport, where I realized I had the departure time wrong and this time had to buy a new ticket and return three days later. More monasteries… But I decided I had devoured enough free cherries and could never again pay for cherries. I’m also convinced that Armenia is more than monasteries. They have great, free, cherries too!
Geghard Monastery
Geghard Monastery is also known as “Geghardavank”, meaning “Monastery of the Holy Lance”. The Holy Lance was also referred to as the Holy Spear or Spear of Destiny. Early biblical text also calls it the Lance of Longinus – named after the Roman soldier who pierced the side of Jesus as he hung on the cross as reported in the Christian Bible’s “Gospel of John” chapter.
While several places of religion claim to possess this lance, a 13th century Armenian manuscript entitled “Holy Relics of Our Lord Jesus Christ” claims that the lance was brought to Armenia by the apostle Thaddeus.
The Armenians refer to the Holy Lance as Geghard, the original place where the relic was kept. Therefore, the monastery is known as Geghardavank – Monastery of the Holy Lance.
Don’t look for the relic in Geghard Monastery because it was moved long ago and is now conserved in Vagharshapat (previously known as Echmiadzin), the religious capital of Armenia. In 1805 the Russians took the relic to Tchitchanov Geghard in Tbilisi, Georgia. However, it was later returned to Echmiadzin.
Gregory the Illuminator who baptized the Armenian royal family in 301 A.D. ordered that a chapel be built in a cave with a spring, which he declared as sacred. The original name was Ayrivank, meaning “Monastery of the Cave”. From being a tiny cave chapel, it grew bigger over time. In 1215 the most prominent chapel was built which was partially carved out of the adjacent rocks.
The monastic complex we see now is a mix of elegant Armenian stonework and stone carved crosses juxtaposed with the bare rocky part of the chapel.
The monastery is partly surrounded by spectacular towering cliffs on the north side and the Azat River Gorge to the south.
At the main entrance on the west side are small caves, chapels, and a few carvings. The main church of the complex is called the Katoghike Chapel and was completed in 1215. The southern facade has a portal with fine carvings. The original chapel of Gregory is a few metres away.
The monastery is not currently in (regular) use. The doors are unlocked most of the time and no entrance fee is charged. Spend a few hours here and just appreciate the beautiful inscriptions, burial vaults, chambers, chapels, rock carvings, corridors, ceilings, and more. Test the acoustics in the main chamber. This is a truly peaceful setting.
Getting here: The Monastery of Geghard is located in Armenia’s Kotayk Province, not far from the town of Garni, about 40 km to the east of Yerevan, in the direction of Lake Sevan. Public transport, other than taxis, does not go all the way to the monastery. Take a bus from Yerevan to the village of Garni (visit the Garni Temple) from where it is a 10 km hike along a dusty road to the monastery. Taxis are scarce in Garni but you may be lucky hitchhiking. It is a long but pleasant walk on the curvy dirt road which is hilly on the north side with beautiful views of the agricultural Azat River Gorge on the south side. You will walk past a few farmhouses. Be here in June or July for the cherry season. If you are lucky, the cherries may be ripe. With tens of cherry trees hanging over the public road loaded with thousands of red-ripe cherries, go ahead and eat. Likely nobody will care. Eat a lot! You can even ask the farmers to give you some of the yellow cherries that don’t grow near the road.
Goshavank Monastery
Goshavank means “Monastery of Gosh” as it is located in the village of Gosh, which lies about 20 km directly north of the northern tip of Sevan Lake. Sevan is the largest body of water in Armenia and the Caucasus region with a total surface area of 5,000 square km.
Goshavank Monastery was completed in the 12th or 13th century on the site where the earlier Nor Getik Monastery was destroyed in the earthquake of 1188.
It is no longer a functioning religious complex and has been lightly restored in recent years. The building is impressive and in fairly good condition. Look out for the khachkar, which are Armenian cross-stone carvings bearing a cross, and other motifs such as rosettes and floral patterns. The complex consists of several churches, chapels, bell tower, and even a 13th century school building.
Getting here: The Goshavank Monastery is located in the village of Gosh in Armenia’s Tavush Province, about 120 km northeast of Yerevan (20 km for the town of Dilijan), not far north of the northern tip of Lake Sevan, Goshavank Monastery is close to Haghartsin Monastery so it makes sense to rent a car and driver in Yerevan for a day trip. En route to Goshavank and Haghartsin, also stop at Sevanavank monastic complex on a peninsula at the northwestern shore of the lake.
Haghpat Monastery
Haghpat is a Byzantine monastery built in a period of prosperity during the time of the Kingdom of Tashir-Dzoraget, also referred to as the Kiurikian dynasty (10th to 13th century).
The building is an exceptional example of ecclesiastical architecture that developed in Armenia between the 10th and 13th century. As the architecture relates to the Christian Church and its clergy, there is much blending of the Byzantine church architecture of the Eastern Roman Empire and the traditional styles of this region.
While the monastery was founded in the late 10th century, most of the structures still standing today were constructed in the 12th and 13th century. The complex was damaged a few times by earthquakes and numerous attacks by armed forces.
Its location is beautiful. Built halfway up a hillside, it overlooks the Debed River and is often wreathed in clouds. Located in the village of Haghpat, the monasteries in northern Armenia differ from those in other regions as they are normally situated in a village rather than being isolated in rural areas. The village itself is pleasant and people are friendly.
The Cathedral of Surb Nishan is the largest church in the complex. Another building is the small domed Church of St. Gregory. Look out for the splendid khachkars (cross-stones). The flowing sunrays from small windows in the domes create a serene atmosphere.
Surb Nishan is a place where you could sit for hours and not get enough. Look as the sunrays stream through small window cavities in the domed ceilings. Watch as they move over time. Kick up a bit of dust and take some creative photos. This is a special place.
The Cathedral of Surb Nishan is the largest building in the monastic complex of Haghpat. Completed in 991 A.D. after about 15 years of construction, it was commissioned by King Smbat II. As the King of Armenia, he was also called “Smbat II – Master of the Universe”.
The Cathedral’s large dome rests on four imposing pillars. A fresco in the apse, which is the semi-circular section above the altar, depicts Christ the Almighty.
No major renovations have been done so the cathedral has retained much of its original character.
Getting here: Haghpat Monastery is located in the village of Haghpat in Armenia’s Lori Province. Haghpat and Sanahin Monasteries are located close to each other in northern Armenia near the Georgia border. If you cross to or from Georgia, visit these monasteries on the same day with a local car and driver from the nearby town of Alaverdi.
Sanahin Monastery
Sanahin Monastery is located a few kilometres from Haghpad Monastery. The name Sanahin literally means “this one is older than that one” which we assume refers to nearby Haghpad. The two monasteries are in view of each other along the Debed River and are similar in many ways, such as the compositional features of their architecture and decoration. It seems clear that the same craftsmen constructed both.
Standing on a high plateau, these monasteries rise sharply against the background of steep forest-grown slopes of the Bazum ridge.
The Sanahin complex dates back to the middle of the 10th century, but construction likely went on into the 13th century. We can now see a few churches and chapels, sepulchers, bell-towers, refectories, and other structures.
The interior of the Church of Saint Astvatsatsin (Holy Mother) and Saint Amenaprkich (All Saviour) Katoghike Church were both decorated with detailed frescoes of which much has been lost over the centuries. The domed cruciform church of Astvatsatsin is located in the middle of the complex and was built between 928-944. Its dome was added much later in 1652 when it underwent major reconstruction. Saint Amenaprkich Church also has a domed cruciform structure and seems bigger than the rest of the buildings.
The belfry is the height of a three-story building and was built between 1211 and 1235.
Sanahin Monastery has somewhat of an eerie element to it once you know about all the graves inside and outside the monastery.
Under the floors of some sections are clear markings of gravestones. The floors of Sanahin were literally paved with graves and gravestones of prominent religious figures, members of royalty and nobles from the wider community. We know that Prince Shah’n’shah’s father is buried at Sanahin after the Mongols ransacked both the monasteries. Little is known about who else is buried at Sanahin as the inscriptions on the gravestones are mostly impossible to decipher.
Behind the monastery are several gravestones, which are, just like the rest of the monastery, overgrown by grass and weeds – some are ancient while others are fairly recent. A few graves are graced by a large stone bust of the deceased.
Sanahin is one of Armenia’s monasteries not to be missed.
Getting here: The Sanahin Monastery is located in Sanahin/Alaverdi in Armenia’s Lori Province. Sanahin and Haghpat Monasteries are located close to each other, in northern Armenia close to the Georgia border. If you cross to or from Georgia, visit these monasteries, both on the same day, with a local car and driver from the nearby town of Alaverdi.
Sanahin Monastery
Haghartsin Monastery
Haghartsin Monastery was built between the 10th and 14th centuries. Its construction was started under the patronage of Armenia’s royal dynasty of Bagratuni who ruled from 861 A.D to 1118. Most of the structures we see today were completed during the 13th century.
Its location is truly remarkable. Surrounded by the Dilijan National Park, the monastery is nestled in a temperate rainforest on a mountainside. The combination of the lush natural surroundings and architectural grandeur is impressive.
The largest and artistically dominant building at this monastic complex is the St. Astvatsatsin Church. Competed in 1218, its tall sixteen-faceted dome is decorated with graceful arches. The gavit, western entrance lobby of the church, has been severely damaged with the walls almost completely destroyed. Walk through the gavit to reach the St. Grigor Church, which is the oldest of the larger structures at the complex. Its gavit, a square building, has ornamented corners decorated with rosettes and sculptures of monks.
Also look for the small St. Stepanos Church and a sepulchre which is cut in rock where some of the royalty from the Bagratuni dynasty are buried.
The refectory which was most likely used for serving communal meals is lined with low stone benches. Nowadays the space is filled with large 30 cm thick cut logs resting on smaller logs that serve as tables. The smaller logs are the chairs. You may be lucky to arrive during a wedding or baptism ceremony at which time the refectory will be used to serve meals to the guests.
During your visit you may also witness a matagh, the sacrificial offering of an animal outside the church. Matagh is one of the ancient traditions of the Armenian Church. It symbolises the act of gift-giving to God and shows mercy by helping the poor.
The matagh was first performed in the times of St. Gregory the Illuminator who decided that after the animal was sacrificed, the meat had to be distributed to the poor as a symbol of mercy.
To make matagh, the believer must bring salt and a healthy male animal or bird, but limited to a sheep, a bull, a chicken, or a dove. Matagh meat must be distributed on the same day and the type of animal sacrificed dictates the number of families it should feed. Cooking must only be in water with salt, which purifies the meat. Doves get released after the sacrificial ceremony.
In November 2013 it was reported that the monastery had reopened after the completion of renovations facilitated by a “significant donation” by the ruler of Sharjah in the United Arab Emirates. Sadly some visitors called the renovations a “destruction” of the historical beauty of the monastery.
Once you are done exploring the monastic complex, go for a hike in the adjacent Dilijan National Park which is one of the four protected national parks in Armenia. Known for its rich biodiversity and medicinal mineral water springs, it is 240 square km in size.
Getting here: The Haghartsin Monastery is located near the town of Dilijan in Armenia’s Tavush Province, about 120 km northeast of Yerevan, not far north from the northern tip of Lake Sevan, Haghartsin Monastery is close to Goshavank Monastery, so it makes sense to rent a car and driver in Yerevan for a day trip. En route to Haghartsin and Goshavank stop at Sevanavank monastic complex on a peninsula at the north western shore of the lake.
Khor Virap Monastery
Khor Virap means “deep pit”, and there is a good reason for the name. Gregory the Illuminator (St. Grigor Lusavorich) was imprisoned in a deep well underneath St. Gevorg Chapel for about 14 years by King Tiridates III.
When the king found out about the Christian faith of Gregory, he ordered him to be tortured and thrown into a deep pit. The king’s evil act was partly driven by the fact that Gregory was the son of his father’s enemy.
The pit measured 6 m deep and 4.4 m wide. After Gregory was thrown into the dark dungeon he was left to die. It was only with the help of a woman who lowered food to him that he survived.
Entrance to the dungeon where St. Gregory was imprisoned Inside the dungeon where St. Gregory was imprisoned
Gregory was recalled from the pit around 297 A.D. to restore the sanity of the king. The king must have loved him for that, so in 301 A.D. Gregory baptized the king along with members of the royal court. He became the king’s religious mentor and the king ordered him to convert the entire country to Christianity. Gregory died around 331 A.D. near Mount Sebuh.
Getting here: Khor Virap Monastery is located in Armenia’s Ararat Province near the (closed) Turkey border – about 50 km south of Yerevan. It is easy to get to the monastery by public transport. Behind Yerevan’s main train station, catch a marshrutka (minibus), which will drop you at the main road near the monastery from where it is a 1.5 km walk. A bigger bus leaves from Sasuntsi David Station in Yerevan. Regular church services are held in this church and it is one of the most-visited pilgrimage sites in Armenia.
Saghmosavank Monastery
The main temple of the Saghmosavank Monastery (Surb Zion or Holy Zion) was founded on command by Prince Vache Vachutyan in 1215. Located near the village of Saghmosavank in the Ashtarak district, the monastery is perched on the edge of the precipitous gorge of the Kasakh river with Mt. Aragats in a distant background. Over the following years, the temple was extended on the western and southern sides with the vestibule (1250), the book-depository (1255) and the church of St. Astvatsatsin (1235). This now forms the monastic complex of Sagmosavank.
Getting here: The monastic complex of Saghmosavank located in the village of Saghmosavan in Armenia’s Aragatsotn Province, about 50 km north of Yerevan. This 13th-century Saghmosavank monastic complex sits atop the precipitous gorge carved by the Kasagh River. The main building, the Church of Zion in Saghmosavank, was completed in 1221 after six years of construction. Just a few kilometres to the south is Hovhannavank Monastery. Both can be visited on a daytrip from Yerevan with a car and driver. If you leave early in the day, you can drop by the town of Echmiadzin, Armenia’s religious centre. However, Echmiadzin has so much to see that it can easily keep you busy for a full day.
Hovhannavank Monastery
About 8 km south of Saghmosavank is the village of Ohanavan, famous for its monastery complex of Hovhannavank which lies 1 km further south of the village. The Hovhannavank’s cruciform domed Church of Karapet was built by Prince Vache Vachutian between 1216 and 1221. However, the oldest section of the monastery was built in the 4th century.
Just like Saghmosavank, Hovhannavank is also perched on the Kasagh gorge rim. The high protective walls around the monastery were built between the 13th and 14th centuries. The monastery was dedicated to John the Baptist, and has a 12th century fortification wall with towers.
Getting here: Hovhannavank is located in the village of Ohanavan in Armenia’s Aragatsotn Province, about 30 km north of Yerevan, Hovhannavank Monastery perches on the edge of the deep Kasagh River canyon. A few kilometres away is Saghmosavank Monastery. Both can be visited on a daytrip from Yerevan.
Surp Gevorg Monastery
Surp Gevorg, or Saint Gevork or Saint George monastery, is near the village of Mughni close to Ashtarak in the Aragatsotn Province. It was purposely built during the 14th century to house some of the remains of Saint George who was known as the “Slayer of Dragons”. The drum and dome were reconstructed between 1661 and 1669. the church is well maintained and still in use.
Getting here: The monastery of Surp Gevorg is located in Mughni in Armenia’s Aragatsotn Province, about 30 km north of Yerevan, Hovhannavank Monastery perches on the edge of the deep Kasagh River canyon. A few kilometres away is Saghmosavank Monastery. Both can be visited on a daytrip from Yerevan.
Sevanavank Monastery
On a narrow rocky peninsula in the northwestern corner of Lake Sevan stands one of the most prominent examples of medieval Armenian architecture. The Sevanavank Monastery was built in the 9th century and is located not far from the town of Sevan. The monastery is known for its picturesque location along the shores Lake Sevan, the largest body of water in Armenia and the entire Caucasus region.
The rocky peninsula where the monastery is located, used to be an island before the lake was heavily exploited for hydroelectric power and the irrigation of the Ararat region during the Soviet period. The monastery is still in use today.
Astvatzatzin – Holy Mother of God (on the left side) and the Arakelots (the Holy Apostles) (right)
Lake Sevan, Armenia
Getting here: The Sevanavank Monastery is located on a peninsula at the northwestern shore of Lake Sevan. Sevanavank is on the way to Haghartsin Monastery and Goshavank Monastery. It is possible to do all three on a day trip from Yerevan by renting a car and driver.
Churches of Echmiadzin
The 4th-largest city in Armenia is Vagharshapat, located about 18 km west of the capital Yerevan, and 10 km north of the closed Turkish-Armenian border. During the period between 1945 and 1995, the city was known as Echmiadzin, and is still commonly referred to by this name.
Echmiadzin is the center of the Armenian Apostolic Church and best known for its Etchmiadzin Cathedral and Mother See of Holy. As the country’s “spiritual capital”, it is unofficially known as the “holy city”. Echmiadzin has a rich history and some very impressive religious buildings to explore. Here are a few not to miss:
Mayr Tachar Cathedral
The mother church of the Armenian Apostolic Church, located in Echmiadzin, was founded in the 4th century but was reconstructed several times into the 19th century.
Mayr Tachar Cathedral, Echmiadzin
Surp Shogahat Church
The 17th-century Surp Shogahat Church, located behind Surp Hripsime in Echmiadzin, is a sturdy stone structure with undecorated but classic lines.
Surp Gayane Church
The 7th century Surp Gayane (Church of Saint Gayane) is located in Echmiadzin. It has changed insignificantly since construction around 630 A.D. except for some renovations of the dome and some ceilings in 1652.
Surp Hripsime Church
The dome of the 7th century Surp Hripsime Church, Echmiadzin, was probably restored in the 10th or 11th century.
Essential Information
Getting There
Several airlines fly into Armenia’s capital, Yerevan. Among the airlines are Air Arabia from Sharjah (UAE), Gulf Air, Qatar Air, and others. Crossing into Armenia from Georgia by car is an easy crossing. The borders with Turkey are closed but the Iran border is open at Nordooz/Agarak.
Getting Around
Public transportation is acceptable albeit slow and vehicles are fairly run-down. Rent a car with driver to visit the monasteries as it saves time and offers great flexibility to stop anywhere. In Yerevan, the main modes of public transport are buses and minibuses. Taxis are plentiful and not expensive.
Location
Located in the Caucasus region, Armenia is bordered by Georgia, Azerbaijan, Iran, Turkey and the rogue republic of Nagorno-Karabakh. The monasteries and churches are quite spread out across Armenia but the central and north of Armenia may have more to see than the south.
When to Go
While photographing a monastery covered in the snow will be awesome, it will be tough to reach some of the sites in winter. The best time is generally late May and June or else late September and October.
Where to Stay
Yerevan has many hotels and guest houses from less than US$20 per night for a single room to over $300 per night. In small towns and villages you may have to rely on a homestay. Enquire at bus and train stations.
Sights
Local Armenians like to remind tourists that their country offers a lot more than ancient monasteries. Check out Lake Sevan, mountain landscapes, remote canyons, the bustling city of Yerevan, and great cuisines!
Packing
As a general rule, dress conservatively. Summers are hot and winters cold. While most of the monasteries are no longer operational, a few are. As a rule, dress respectfully when visiting all monasteries and churches.
Train Journeys
Travelling from Tbilisi (Georgia) to Yerevan takes about 10.5 hours. The train has 1st to 3rd class sleepers. There is no direct train between Baku (Azerbaijan) and Yerevan, so take the route via Tbilisi.
Cost of Travel
In line with travel costs in the Caucasus, Armenia is not expensive. Almost everything the average traveller on a tight budget needs is very reasonably priced. It is easy to find a single room for less than US$20.
☛ Read more: Posts about “Places of Worship”
Further reading
Blog post and photos by Peter who has been travelling almost full-time since 2005 and has been to over 122 countries. He visited several countries, such as Japan, more than 20 times. Peter is Editor-in-Chief and Publisher of GlobeRovers Magazine, an independent travel magazine focused on intrepid destinations.