Text by Janet-Lynn Vorster
Hermanus, a mere 105 km and 90 minutes from Cape Town Airport, is perched above the rocky cliffs in Walkers Bay. The Kleinrivier Mountains form a scenic backdrop to the town. You are always close to the sea in Hermanus, as it is a long, narrow town, confined by the ocean to the south and the mountains on the north side.
Hermanus has a Mediterranean climate, with mild wet winters and hot dry summers. There is always a coastal wind, so take something warm with you, even in summer.
Hermanus is a modern town, stocking most of what you will need while you are there.
If you love walking, running or cycling, you will love Hermanus, as the mountains behind Hermanus are interlaced with walking- and mountain bike trails, and there is a 12 km cliff path along the shoreline.
For the adrenalin junkies, look no further! Hermanus has ziplining, shark cage diving, kayaking, kite surfing, quad biking, horse riding, sandboarding, paragliding, paintball, archery, abseiling and more!
For those who prefer a more leisurely game of golf, the Hermanus Golf Club has a spectacular 27-hole course, within the town.
In whale watching season, best between July and November, when the Southern Right whales come into the bay from Antarctica to give birth to their calves, boat trips are available to view the whales from closer. You may see seals, penguins, dolphins and Bryde’s whales or Humpback whales and numerous seabirds, like the African black oystercatcher.
Some come to Hermanus for the wine, some for the local beer, some for the cheese and olive culture that compliments the wine, some for the seafood…
Whatever your taste, there is something for you! If you have no idea where to start, I suggest you visit Burgundy Restaurant in Marine Drive and take it from there.
On any Saturday, head straight for The Hermanus Country Market at the Hermanus Cricket Grounds, between 09:00 and 13:00. There you will discover the most interesting array of foods and drinks, guaranteed to satisfy the most discerning palate. Fresh organic products, local wines and beer, cheese, olives, pestos, sweet treats, artisan breads, biltong, preservative-free salami, fresh juices, excellent coffee (by a roaster and barista) and gourmet foods!
Treat the kids to a ride on a train made from big 44 gallon drums and pulled by a tractor, or let them enjoy the play area while you eat, drink and chat to the locals.
With live music (Des Bosch from Money for Jam was playing and singing the day I was there), the vibe is festive. Shop for organic soaps, jewellery, art, crafts, gifts, plants and various items for the home. You will be spoilt for choice!
If you are heading for the beach, these are my impressions:
Grotto Beach, a Blue Flag (award of excellence) beach, is the furthest beach before driving out of Hermanus towards Stanford and Gansbaai. It has a licenced restaurant (I recommend their home-made “Bitterballen”). This beach is suitable for both children and the elderly. The beach has gentle slopes, so the sea is shallow for a long way out. It has a playground too. If you are wanting to walk, the beach is 18 km long, and you could walk to your heart’s content!
Voëlklip Beach is not recommended for the elderly, as there are many steps down to the beach. Along the terraces are many wooden benches on which to sit, so pack a picnic basket, as the terraces are lawn and not beach sand! The beach has a gentle slope into the surf, swirls around the rocks, and attracts surfers too.
Kammabaai Beach has something for everyone. People fish, surf and swim. The overhanging cliffs are ideal if you need a shady spot during the day. For the elderly, parking is close to the beach and it is a short walk directly onto the beach, a big plus point for carrying arms full of beach umbrellas, towels and bags.
Langbaai Beach is a long walk down from the parking area through the Milkwood Trees on uneven steps, so definitely not suitable for the elderly. This beach seemed to me to be quite dangerous for swimming, as the water was surging and unpredictable, and this on a lovely, clear day.
Onrus Beach has a restaurant overlooking the beach. It is a steep walk to and from the parking area, so not the best option for the elderly. A river runs into the sea, ideal for kids to swim in. This beach slopes far too steeply for my liking, and the result is that the sea gets deep quickly at high tide.
All the beaches have toilets, except for Langbaai Beach which has no toilets at all.
Hermanus has lovely, comfortable accommodation. Book well in advance as Hermanus is a popular destination. Most places in Hermanus are close to the sea, due to the nature of the position of the town. I stayed at Hermanus Boutique Guest House where Annatjie saw to my every need, and had lunch at Burgundy Restaurant where Pieter and his friendly waiters made the meal unforgettable.
The mountains behind Hermanus are home to the Fernkloof Nature Reserve, which has around 1,474 species of Fynbos, Proteas and Ericas. Around Hermanus a few species of small antelope can be found, as well as porcupines, mongooses, baboons, the Cape clawless otter, caraculs and the occasional leopard.
For birding enthusiasts, include a few hours at Vermont Salt Pan. This is a wetland, mildly saline, in the green belt conservation area. It is home to around 600 flamingos for up to six months of the year, and many other species of ducks and birds.
In summary, Hermanus has something for everyone, and will not disappoint, but may in fact surprise you. Whether you like mountains or sea, farm life or city life, resting or adrenalin sports, marine life, flora and fauna or birding, Hermanus has it all! So, for a whale of a time, include Hermanus in your next holiday trip.
Tear your gaze away from the sea and the cliffs while driving along the west end of Marine Drive, and you will see Hermanus Boutique Guest House across the road. It overlooks the bay, positioned directly above Fick’s Pool, and provides a lovely vantage point for whale watching.
From the street, the guest house appears smaller than it is. However, once inside you get a sense of the spaciousness.
The original establishment has been renovated and upgraded, and consists of eight rooms inside and two outside. An additional eight rooms and a self-catering unit have since been added on an adjacent property. A pool with a sundeck provides a leisurely way to spend hot, summer days.
Hartsgoed, loosely translated as “Close to the heart”, the self-catering unit, sleeps two couples and 3 children. This unit is furnished with nostalgia and love.
No detail has been spared to make this experience comfortable and luxurious, evident from the colour coordination, furnishings and beautiful array of cushions that adorn every room. Touches of gold throughout, emanate luxury and a sort of splendour. At night the lighting creates a cosy and warm ambience.
The welcoming angel at the heart of the guest house is Annatjie du Preez, assistant manager… quiet-spoken, with a natural flair for beauty and detail.
Annatjie will see to your every need and make sure you are happy. She loves to create an environment where guests can just “BE”. She will go out of her way to make your stay more enjoyable, or to source something you need or forgot to pack.
Because she lives in the guest house, she likes to keep it fresh and homely. Like a mother, she is capable of keeping an eye on everyone from a distance, anticipating their every need. Integrity is priority in her life. Knowing every day that she did all she could for everybody gives her joy.
Annatjie has carte blanche to do all the floral arrangements in the guest house, and a rich profusion of flowers was one of the first sights to greet me. Annatjie pampers her flowers, and not a wilted leaf or drooping head could be seen, despite the mass of blooms that she lovingly tends.
Each room has everything you could possibly need, including a hair dryer, air conditioner, bar fridge, tea, coffee, Digital Satellite Television (DSTV), Wi-Fi and a stunning en-suite bathroom. Each room is different, and each is exquisite. Rooms 1 and 2 are suitable for guests in wheelchairs.
Breakfast is a bright and cheerful affair with beautifully set tables, offering both a continental- and English breakfast to choose from. For dinner, discuss your preferences with Annatjie, and she will refer you to the best option.
You might meet Mariane Maree too, as she likes to come and greet the guests. Mariane is the general manager overseeing the whole operation. She has been there since August 2015 and has loved every minute, assisted by a team of very capable staff.
Guests include people from all over the world with many guests returning, some booking their next visit before they even leave. Difficult guests? Annatjie says she can count them on one hand… Speaks volumes!
Marine drive. 1.39 km of cliffside road in the heart of Hermanus. Burgundy Restaurant is situated between Gearings Point and the Old Harbour. On the corner of Marine drive and Harbour road, you will find a sculpture, called “The Sea Change” by Anton Smit, and right behind it, you will see Burgundy.
You will smell the lovely aromas wafting from Burgundy. Go on in for a glass of local wine. Or a coffee. Chances are you will be visiting for longer than you intended, and ordering more than just drinks! As dishes pass you by, plated to entice both the eye and most discerning palate, you will get drawn into the mouth-watering and homely smells of really flavourful foods and you will know you have found the best cuisine in Hermanus.
From the first smile when you enter and the warm greetings from Pieter, Rudolf or one of the other managers or waiters, you will know that this restaurant is all heart and soul and built on passion.
But let me start at the beginning… way back… as Burgundy is situated in the oldest surviving building in Hermanus.
It all began with a love story… 1875… Martha Wessels’ husband disappeared without a trace… and without a death certificate, she could neither remarry nor live together with her new lover, Swedish boat builder John Louis, later known as Swede Wessels, taking on the last name of his sweetheart. They made a plan, as lovers do, and Swede built two adjoining cottages, seemingly separate from the outside to the eyes of onlookers. He lived in one cottage, and she and her daughters in the other. It was probably the delightfully scandalous gossip of the town, with the cottages being just above the Old Harbour in plain sight.
1928… Miss Ethel Rubery from England bought the property and opened “Cypress Tea Garden”, named after the Cypress Tree in front of the building.
1968… or thereabouts… Timothy Hamilton Russell, who pioneered Burgundy style Pinot Noir and Chardonnay wines in Hermanus, bought the building to prevent it from being demolished. It was declared a National Monument, preserved as a tea garden and fishing museum. Around 1981, he obtained a “Wine House Licence” in order not to become “a purveyor of cheap alcohol”. In 1987 the “Cypress Tea Garden” was transformed into “The Burgundy Restaurant”. Since 2014 it has new owners and managers, all proud to be part of the high culinary standards that locals and patrons have come to expect.
Burgundy has the perfect setting and location. Good quality food, fresh ingredients, and a good passing trade keep the vibe buzzing. Pieter Nel, front of house manager and Rudolf van der Berg, co-owner, keep a watchful eye and place two additional managers, Minette Henn and Behansa Sauls, on the floor when necessary. They know the abilities of the kitchen, restaurant and staff. It requires careful and good management not to overshoot capabilities with too many customers in a sitting. Burgundy has got this balance down to a fine art. During busy times when people are queuing, Burgundy will provide wine tasting and talks about wines from local vineyards and wine makers.
Pieter is passionate about the business. His positivity rubs off onto everyone.
Pieter started his career as a food and beverage manager. His eyes light up as he says it is “magic when a machine operates to maximum capability and it runs smoothly”. Rudolf is responsible for the menu, and his ability to combine dishes and eye for detail is amazing. He is a trained chef. He likes to retain old, valued dishes, so will often rather recreate and change existing dishes slightly than recreate the entire menu.
Burgundy has some of the most learned and capable waiters, and turnover is minimal. They often remember customers’ orders and wine preferences! They are trained to be flexible, as Burgundy has an open menu. There is no children’s menu, and people are encouraged to combine food from the menu. The waiters are very accommodating with specific food requirements, and managers never far away.
From 17:00 daily there is a separate evening menu to lift the restaurant to a more sophisticated and formal feeling, yet the dress code remains relaxed. Bookings are made indoors at night, although in good weather people can sit outdoors. However, their table remains reserved indoors in case the weather changes. The vibe at night is warm and cosy. People like to be recognised, and Burgundy makes a point of knowing their regulars, creating a warmth that draws people in and enhances the feeling of “coming home”.
Janet-Lynn is a numerologist by profession, and journalist, editor and photographer by hobby. She is the proud mother of three grown children and granny to three grandchildren.