Boating down the Ayeyarwady (or Irrawaddy) River sounds like Myanmar’s version of “The Love Boat”. It could be, but it certainly is not what I have in mind.
NOTE: Myanmar is a fast-changing country and some areas can be quite volatile. What was true yesterday, may not be true today, and certainly may not be true tomorrow. Before setting off on this trip, do research to be aware of any changes and limitations. Routes are often closed off to foreigners (and even to locals) due to conflict between the government forces and rebel groups. Train, bus, and plane routes often change without notice.
Why Journey down the Ayeyarwady River?
- The low-down: The Ayeyarwady is a mighty river and to slowly drifting down, passing and stopping by many authentic villages, is an experience you won’t easily forget. The roughly 24 hours on the boat offers many opportunities to mingle with the friendly and very curious locals.
- The brightest highlight: Making new friends on the boat, as well as during the brief stops at several river-villages along the way down to Mandalay.
- Intrepid destination: Absolutely. You are likely to be the only foreigner on the boat and you will see the real Myanmar way of life on and along the river banks.
- Globerovers score (10 is highest): I very much enjoyed this trip and can’t give it less than 9 out of 10.
Table of Contents
The Mighty Ayeyarwady River
This river is big. It flows from its sources in the Himalayan glaciers of Upper Myanmar all the way south through the Ayeyarwady Delta and into the Andaman Sea. A distance of about 2,170 km.
The river is home to the endangered Ayeyarwady dolphin and the Ayeyarwady river shark.
The delta near the Andaman Sea is fertile and home to many species including the sambar deer, wild boar, Asian elephants, leopard, Bengal tiger, crab-eating macaque, wild dog, otters, saltwater crocodiles and many exotic animals.
Let’s get back to the boat.
Getting to the North
Expensive flights go from Yangon or Mandalay and on to Myitkyina or Bhamo from where you can start the river journey.
However, boarding at Katha requires a long and bumpy bus or train ride from Mandalay. The best way is by train – and be ready for an adventure train ride.
Book your train ticket a few days in advance from Mandalay to the village of Naba. This very interesting but bumpy train ride normally takes about 12 hours which means you will arrive in Naba at around 3 am. At the train station, an old bus should be waiting to take the passengers on a 45 min ride (23 km) east to the town of Katha.
A train ride you won’t easily forget
Once you arrive in town, take a tricycle taxi to one of the three old shabby guest houses near the river. Choose among the Ayarwaddy Guest House, Eden Guest House and the New Diamond Hotel. The first two are extremely shabby while the latter is a tidbit better. Regard yourself lucky if you can board the big boat on the same day.
Boarding the Southbound Boat
A large China-built passenger boat drifts down the Ayeyarwady River fairly regularly but infrequently from Myitkyina in the northern Kachin State down south to Mandalay.
You can board the boat in Myitkyina, the most northern town on this route, or a bit downstream at Bhamo or further down at Katha (Myitkyina and Bhamo are often suspended). Getting to the point of boarding is challenging.
A boat ride you won’t ever forget
As you board the boat and settle down in your private, but basic, cabin, you will be delighted to leave the scruffy town of Katha.
Slowly Drifting down the Ayeyarwady River
Once the boat pulls away from the ferry docks, the fun starts. That is if you remembered to buy snacks and a big bottle of Myanmar Rum. I promise you will need it during the long night on the boat!
Explore Myanmar’s River Villages
As the sun sets over the Ayeyarwady, it’s time to buy a cold coke from the little shop onboard and pull out your rum. Soon you will have several friends around you and as the boat ever so slowly drifts down the Ayeyarwady, so you and your friends will empty the bottle, and eat all your snacks.
Wake up early in the morning with a slight headache and watch as the boat continues its drift past many small villages with hordes of excited residents congregating to welcome the boat. Wave, take photos, smile. You are the main attraction because foreigners are scarce in this part of Myanmar.
The boat will come to a standstill a stone-throw away from the shore as it stops at a couple of villages along the route. Villagers will quickly place a few planks between the river’s muddy edge and the boat to let passengers get on and off.
The village ladies will wade waist-deep into the river to get close up to the boat to sell their wares. When you make eye contact, some fruits will fly through the air into your waiting hands, at which time you are expected to float down the money. Almost hard to resist the fruits… While they are not of great quality, they sure are cheap and the ladies are in dire need of some cash. Go ahead. Float down the money.
The exciting journey continues until you eventually reach Mandalay.
BOAT INFORMATION
Slow Boat: Southbound: Katha (Mon: 06:00) to Mandalay (arrives Tue 16:00) Northbound: Mandalay (Mon: 06:00) to Katha (arrives Wed 01:00) Cost: US$30 for a 2-person private cabin.
Fast Boat: Departure from both towns on Monday, Thursday, Saturday at 6am and 9pm. Journey takes 15 hours and costs $40 for a seat.
☛ More about Myanmar
Portraits of Nagaland
Mystic Hill Tribes of Myanmar’s Shan State
The Vibrant New Year Festival of Nagaland
Unspoiled Mergui Archipelago – Asia’s Paradise
Further reading
- About the Ayeyarwady River
- Irrawaddy River, Myanmar’s River of Spirits
- Irrawaddy River, Burma: Trip of a Lifetime
Blog post and photos by Peter who has been travelling almost full-time since 2005 and has been to over 122 countries. He visited several countries, such as Japan, more than 20 times. Peter is Editor-in-Chief and Publisher of GlobeRovers Magazine, an independent travel magazine focused on intrepid destinations.