The railway line between Khiva and Bukhara takes a detour via Navoi to the north which will require a change of trains. The faster way from Khiva to Bukhara is by private taxi, or for a cheaper option settle for a shared taxi which leaves when filled to the brim.
We explore Bukhara, the Uzbek city on the Silk Road with over 140 architectural monuments.
The five to six-hour journey to cross 450 km goes along the border with Turkmenistan. It is a lonely and boring road through a semi-desert terrain.
Why travel to Bukhara?
- The low-down: Bukhara is a pleasant city located on the ancient Silk Route, between Samarkand to the east and Khiva to the northwest. The old city is compact though packed with ancient monuments to explore. Some of the best sites are further away.
- The brightest highlight? While the fortress (the Ark) is most prominent, it is the smaller jewels that take the crown, such as the beautiful woodwork at the Bolo-Hauz Mosque and the flamboyant interior of the Fayzulla Khojaev House.
- Intrepid destination? Unless you visit in the heat of the summer, it’s not exactly an intrepid destination. However, get into an intrepid mood by heading out of town southwards to the border with Turkmenistan.
- Globerovers score (10 is highest): Bukhara gets half a notch higher (a 7.5) compared with Samarkand’s score of
7, because the old town is more compact and Bukhara is a cosy town with lots of character. Don’t miss the authentic Kukluk Bazaar and the colourful ceramics.
Table of Contents
Persian Roots
Bukhara, with a population of about 270,000, is one of the larger cities in Uzbekistan and also one of the oldest. While settlements in the area were founded in the 6th century BC, most of the current buildings date back between the 15th and 17th centuries while some were built during the 9th and 10th centuries.
Bukhara was the largest centre for Muslim theology from the 9th to the 16th centuries and is an unspoiled example of a medieval Central Asia town.
Being part of the Persian Empire for several years, many of the current inhabitants can trace back their roots to the Persians.
Located on the ancient Silk Road, the city was not only well known for its trade in copper, but also as the intellectual centre of the Islamic world. As such, the city is dotted with numerous mosques and madrassas, most notably the Kalon Mosque and its prominent minaret, the Ulugbek Madrassa, Abdul Aziz Khan Madrassa, and the Chashma-Ayub Mausoleum.
A Fortress Known as an Ark
The most prominent feature of Bukhara is its fortress that was initially built and occupied around the 5th century AD. Better known as the Ark of Bukhara, it was a small walled city inhabited by various royal courts.
Today the Ark is an interesting museum that showcases the town’s history. Sadly, Bukhara lost some of its most precious and ancient structures during the Arab invasion and again when conquered by Genghis Khan in 1220.
Unlike Khiva, several notable sights are outside the old city of Bukhara but can be reached on foot or by bicycle. There is much to experience around town which includes the many primary sights but also many lesser-visited sites as well as the authentic Kukluk Bazaar.
Minarets and Mosques
Char Minar (meaning “four minarets”) was once a gatehouse of a madrassa that no longer stands. Built along with its madrassa in 1807, its architecture is more Indian in style than Uzbek. In 1998 UNESCO restored one of the towers which had collapsed.
The Bolo-Hauz Mosque was built during the early 18th century and was a place of prayer for the Emirs and their entourage. The pool in front of the mosque is the oldest part of the ensemble and is one of the few remaining in Bukhara. In honour of this pool, the mosque is called Bolo-Hauz, which means “children’s pool.” Its 40 slender, elegantly carved wooden pillars hold up a beautifully restored painted ceiling.
We highly recommend staying at the refurbishment Rustam and Zukhra B&B now known as the stylish As-Salom Hotel.
☛ Read more: 10 Great experiences in Uzbekistan
A few more photos of Bukhara
More posts from Uzbekistan
- Central Asia Travel – Uzbekistan the Star
- Tashkent – the Uzbek Capital
- The walled city of Khiva
- Samarkand, the Uzbek scholarly city
- 10 Great experiences in Uzbekistan
Also check the full-length feature article of Central Asia, including Uzbekistan, Kazakhstan, Tajikistan, Afghanistan, and Kyrgyzstan in GlobeRovers Magazine July 2014.
Blog post and photos by Peter who has been travelling almost full-time since 2005 and has been to over 122 countries. He visited several countries, such as Japan, more than 20 times. Peter is Editor-in-Chief and Publisher of GlobeRovers Magazine, an independent travel magazine focused on intrepid destinations.