Words and photos by Jenna Kirkby (15), a resident of Darnall Village.
On the North Coast of KwaZulu Natal, South Africa, lies an undiscovered gem. A place where summer greets you with a canopy of red Flamboyant flowers and a sweet breeze. A place where the hills are covered with sugar-cane blowing back and forth, like an ocean of green leaves.
The name of this undiscovered beauty is Darnall, a small sugarcane village. David Brown, one of the first settlers in the area, named it after his hometown in the UK. Only an hour’s drive from Durban this town has managed to stay “off the map.”
There is a big diversity of cultures in Darnall. The majority is Zulu, but it also has a large Indian community. Bright coloured African skirts and head wraps, saris and Punjabis, yummy curries and offal (those inside bits of animals people tend not to eat) are all evidence of this mixture of cultures. We are a close-knit community that look after each other. Although the people in Darnall are not the wealthiest, they never shy away from giving and visitors to the area have a good chance of being invited for a meal into one of their homes.
There is abundant wildlife and Darnall is definitely a bird watchers paradise. A huge troop of Vervet Monkeys are frequent visitors in the area. Although they can be a pest for locals, visitors will enjoy their antics. Be warned, there are also some dangerous snakes in the vicinity such as Black Mambas, Green Mambas and Pythons.
Darnall is sub-tropical so winters are moderate. During the summer it gets hot and humid and temperatures can reach a scorching 45° C! Luckily the beach is just a 5 minute drive away so you can cool off in the ocean.
Zinkwasi beach is clean and has lifeguards stationed at the designated swimming areas. It is a very popular beach and can get quite packed during peak season, so make sure you arrive early to get a parking spot.
A very big attraction to this beach is the lagoon where kids can swim and play. It is also excellent for canoeing or rowing, even jet skiing. Beware though that crocodiles have been spotted upriver, so rather stay close to the mouth of the lagoon. For those who prefer to stay out of the water Zinkwasi is perfect for fishing. It is a popular past time in the area and you can either fish from the shore or charter a boat for deep sea fishing. Make sure to buy a fishing licence before you go fish as fishing is tightly regulated by the local authorities.
Something you should not miss when visiting this beach is a sundowner or a local beer at the ski-boat club (something which I’m not allowed to do because I’m too young). It is literally right on the beach and the perfect place to end a day in the sun. The ski-boat club also offers snacks such as burgers and chips, which is all very reasonably priced.
If pizza is your thing then Prouds Pizza, by the entrance to the beach, is the place to go. The pizza is made in a clay oven and their pizzas are always delicious! Typical for Africa is the locals selling handmade bead necklaces, woven baskets and carvings of all sorts. Buying from the locals is a lot cheaper than any curio shop, so don’t miss the opportunity to buy something nice here.
Accommodation in the area ranges from a self-catering to luxurious guest houses. Darnall itself does not have a hotel, but you can rent a holiday house for a reasonable price. For those who would prefer a sea view or being closer to the beach Zinkwazi has many options to choose from.
The best way to get around would be by car, but if you are feeling adventurous, you could bike or walk. Apart from 1 or 2 local shops, shopping is almost non-existent in the area. A nice break from busy malls and shopping centres.
There are however quite a few restaurants. Some of the local foods you would find on the menu are curry, biryani and puthu pap. Darnall Country Club restaurant is known for the best curry on the North Coast so it’s worth a visit.
The Country Club also has a bar which is popular with locals where they meet to watch rugby games and enjoy a game of darts or pool. If you don’t feel like driving to the beach, you could always stop at the club to cool off. They have a 25m swimming pool that is excellent for a little holiday workout or just some splashing around! If swimming isn’t really your thing, then you could always enjoy a game of tennis or squash, or even bowls. The club also boasts a picturesque nine-hole golf course and the green fees are very affordable. Golf carts and caddies are available for players.
If you are a nature lover the area offers many nature reserves and lots of scenic attractions such as the Harold Johnson Nature Reserve situated only about 11km from Darnall. The reserve offers visitors beautiful views of the mighty Tugela River. I suggest a visit to the Amatikulu Game Reserve. The reserve has wonderful walking trails. One of them, not a difficult walk, leads up to the Whale Watching Tower. From this tower you have magnificent views that stretch kilometres far. Fish Eagles often gets spotted here as well.
Even though I have only lived in Darnall for a few years, it feels as if I’ve lived here my whole life. I love the mesmerizing beaches, the white sand and clear blue ocean with palm trees. I love the fact that you can hear and see nature all around you. But most of all, I love its people. No matter where you go, you will always be greeted with a smile. They have taught me to be thankful for what I have, to have a kind and giving heart and that joy can be found in the little things.
Read more: Posts of South Africa
