Walk the streets of historical Kochi, hike the tea and cardamom plantations of Munnar, spot tigers in the Periyar Tiger Reserve near Kumily, then relax for a few days in a houseboat on the Alleppey backwaters and the fine beaches of Varkala.
India is a federal union of states comprising twenty-eight states. Kerala state, located in the southwest along the Malabar Coast on the Arabian Sea, is the only state with more women than men (1,084 women per 1,000 men in 2011). Bordered by the state of Tamil Nadu to the east, and the state of Karnataka to the north, Kerala is most famous for its history and arts (most notably in the town of Kochi), the tea, coffee, and cardamom plantations in the Western Ghats mountain range, the wildlife sanctuaries and tiger reserves, the Kerala backwaters along the Arabian Sea, and of course the tropical beaches.
Why travel to Kerala in India?
- The low-down: The State of Kerala lies on the southwestern Malabar Coast of India – a beautiful coastline that extends for 595 km (370 mi). In the centre of the coast is the historic town of Kochi, and to the interior are the “Western Ghats”, mountains whose slopes support tea, coffee and spice plantations as well as wildlife.
- The brightest highlight: While the coast is beautiful, and the Western Ghats extremely tranquil, Kerala’s highlight is a multi-day private houseboat cruise along the rustic Kerala backwaters near Alappuzha (or Alleppey), a network of tranquil canals and lagoons.
- Intrepid destination: While not truly an intrepid destination, the area offers many places to get away from the hustle and bustle.
- Globerovers score (10 is highest): Kerala is a must-do state in India. The food is great, people are friendly, and there is so much to see and experience. The GlobeRovers score is 8/10.
Table of Contents
Historical Kochi
A great start to experiencing the Kerala way of life is at the historical town of Kochi, formerly known as Cochin, which is a major port city on the west coast of Kerala along the Arabian Sea.
With a city population of over 600,000 people (which is part of an extended metropolitan region of about 2.1 million), Kochi is the most densely populated city in the state.
Its rich history includes being the centre of the Indian spice trade, the Kingdom of Kochi which came into existence in the early 12th century, the colonial rules of the Portuguese, Dutch and the British, and being the temporary burial place of the Portuguese explorer, Vasco Da Gama, who died here on Christmas Eve of 1524 after earlier sailing around Cape of Good Hope in South Africa.
However, Vasco is no longer resting here as his son came in 1539 to take daddy’s remains back to his birth-land of Portugal where Vasco was re-interred in a casket decorated with gold and jewels in Vidigueira (southeast of Lisbon).
Kochi has been drawing traders, explorers and travellers to its shores for over 600 years
The Portuguese rule was followed by that of the Dutch who gave Kochi to the British in 1814, until 1947 when India gained independence from Britain. Several Dutch graves can still be seen near the St. Francis Church.
Kochi is a colourful place and some of the highlights include the old area referred to as Fort Kochi where you can see the “Chinese fishing nets” in operation. These large structures were introduced by Portuguese Casado settlers from Macau.
Other highlights include the old, though severely decaying colonial buildings, the St. Francis Church, Santa Cruz Cathedral Basilica, Bolgatty Palace, Hill Palace, the Mattancherry Palace also known as the Dutch Palace, and a few nearby islands.
Streets of Kochi St. Francis CSI Church, Kochi
Probably the most interesting attraction is to attend a Kathakali performance at the famous Kathakali Theater. Kathakali means `story-play’, and is a dance-drama which originated during the 17th century here in Kerala. Kathakali is thought as a fusion between many types of Indian theatre represented by Koodiyattom and the indigenous tradition of folk dance forms.
The performance starts with a demonstration of how facial expressions can be used in lieu of verbal dialogue. Once you understand these facials, you can easily follow the unspoken dialogue of the performance. If you miss a performance here in Kochi, catch one at the Mudra Kathakali Center in the town of Kumily when you visit the Cardamom Hills near Thekkady.
Munnar Plantations
Next, a 4-hour trip by private car and driver goes to the hill station of Munnar in the Western Ghats range of mountains known for its tea, coffee, and cardamom plantations.
The picturesque town is at the confluence of the Madhurapuzha, Nallathanni and Kundaly rivers and while it is a pleasant town to stay, the most recommended accommodation is a home-stay at one of the many lovely tea plantation estates.
Munnar is probably most famous for having the highest tea estates in India
Most visitors to Munnar come for the cool mountain breeze, good Kerala food, and for hikes around the tea, coffee, and cardamom plantations. The misty mountain peaks are covered in lush vegetation and some primary forests. In the sylvan valleys are placid lakes, meandering streams, some wildlife such as the Nilagiri tahr (a rare breed of mountain goat), wild pigs, and porcupines. Beautiful orchids can be seen in spring.
Munnar is famous for the wild Neelakurinchi orchid which blooms once every 10 to 12 years and turns the valleys into violet shades.
The British settlers during the colonial times introduced the tea cultivation to Kerala and today the rolling hills are covered in green pruned tea (Camellia Sinensis) plantations.
Walking around the tea plantations you can smell the pleasant aroma of the tea leaves. During early morning and late afternoon, women carrying a basket behind their backs pluck the first two leaves along with the bud from each shoot. Only the youngest leaves are used for making tea – broadly classified into Green Tea, Oolong Tea and Black Tea.
Cardamom plantations are second-most prominent to the tea plantations and are often seen sharing the hills with the native trees and shrubs.
These plantations are highly valued as cardamom is the world’s third most expensive spice by weight (trailing saffron and vanilla which are both locally grown here in Kerala).
Kumily & Thekkady
From Munnar travel south to the pleasant town of Kumily surrounded by more tea and cardamom plantations, the nearby area of Thekkady, and the Periyar Tiger Reserve.
Kumily is the gateway town to Thekkady and the Periyar Wildlife Sanctuary
Kumily is a border-town (Kerala state and Tamil Nadu state) in the Cardamom Hills and is the gateway to the Periyar National Park and Wildlife Sanctuary at Thekkady. The Thekkady area is a haven for natural spices such as black pepper, cardamom, cinnamon and cloves. Thekkady is also known for its natural trails lined with chirping birds, rare jungle animals and gushing mountain streams. Its landscapes also have elevated terrains, lush valleys, and picturesque lakes.
Kumily town is quite interesting and worth a day or two. Walk around the spice markets and visit a Kathakali dance performance at the town’s Mudra Kathakali Centre. The Indian Martial Arts performance called Kalaripayattu at the Kadathanadan Kalari Centre is spectacular.
The Periyar Tiger Reserve is spread across 777 square km, of which about half is dense evergreen forest. It was declared a Tiger Reserve in 1978 and in 2010 it was estimated that 53 tigers roam the park.
About 1,000 Indian elephants also live here, in addition to the sambar (horse deer), barking deer, mouse deer, the gaur ox, dholes (wild dogs), foxes, mongoose, giant squirrels, an unknown number of leopards, and the very rare Nilgiri langur – a type of “Old World” monkey which I was fortunate to see twice during my hiking in the sanctuary. The sanctuary can be explored through hiking (come prepared for the aggressive leaches), boating and jeep safaris.
Alleppey Backwaters Houseboats
From Kumily head back to the Arabian Sea for the highlight of the trip: A live-aboard houseboat cruise from the town of Alappuzha around the Kerala backwaters. Alappuzha, also known as Alleppey, is best know as the gateway to the Kerala backwaters.
Alleppey (now Alappuzha) is known as the ‘Venice of the East’
Malayalam is the most common language, while Hindi, English and Tamil are also widely spoken. The town itself does not have much to see. Attractions in and around town are limited to temple festivals (at the right time of the year), St. Mary’s Church (established by St. Thomas), a 9th-century Karimadi Kuttan statue of Buddha, Sreekrishna Swamy Temple, and the Marari-beach. The main reason people arrive in town is to find their boat for a few days of relaxation on the Kerala backwaters.
The “backwaters” of Kerala connects Kumarakom and Kochi towards the north and Quilon to the south and is a chain of brackish lagoons, inlets, rivers, and lakes lying parallel to the Arabian Sea coast (known as the Malabar Coast).
Lord Curzon of Kedleston (11 January 1859 – 20 March 1925), a British Conservative statesman who was Viceroy of the Indian Empire, described the Alleppey backwaters as the “Venice of the East”.
Get your snacks, drinks, and friends and walk along the canals to choose the best houseboat. A two-day-one-night trip will suffice, though a three-day-two-night should be superb. At various locations, the boat will stop at your request at which time you can get off and mingle with the locals, take photos, and do some shopping in the markets.
At sunset, the boat will dock at some peaceful spot under the coconut trees at which time you will enjoy a cocktail followed by dinner prepared on board. The keyword here is relaxation and meeting the welcoming local Kerala folks. Happy sailing!
Varkala Beach
Conclude a great trip through Kerala state with a few days relaxing at Varkala Beach. Also known as “Papanasam Beach” (which literary means ‘washing away your sins’), Varkala Beach is the only place in southern Kerala where cliffs rise up high along the Arabian Sea.
Most of the accommodation, restaurants and shops are perched on the high cliffs so you are safe against any possible tsunamis. Swimming is great though the best time of the day is late afternoon to watch the colourful sunset over the sea while sipping on a cocktail.
After sunset, many restaurants along the top of the cliffs come alive and offer the day’s catch any way you like it, and the Kerala way! Alternatively, you can have dinner right on the beach at the northern end of the cliffs.
Other than staring over the ocean, a few other attractions are worth visiting such as the 2,000-year-old Janardana Swami Temple (a Vaishnavaite shrine), referred to as Dakshin Kashi (Benares of the South). The temple is close to Varkala Beach and is considered to have holy waters to wash away sins. Afterwards, get a nice Ayurveda treatment too.
The famous bell-shaped Sivagiri Mutt (built-in 1904) is situated at the top of Sivagiri Hill near Varkala. Sree Narayana Guru, the social reformer, was enlightened and also buried here. It is a major pilgrimage centre that attracts many devotees to the Guru’s Samadhi (final resting place).
Varkala Beach is 180 km (112 mi) by train from Kochi (140 km / 87 mi from Alappuzha) and makes a perfect spot to stay over for a few days en route to Kerala’s capital, Thiruvananthapuram, from where flights go to many places across India, as well as (currently) to the Middle East, Singapore, Maldives and Sri Lanka.
Have a wonderful stay, The Kerala Way. It just may be the best trip you have ever done!
Kerala Traveller Tips
It is quite easy to travel through Kerala, but keep in mind the following:
- While public transportation such as trains and buses are available (the train only along the coastline), if your time and patience are limited, get a car and driver in Kochi. Your driver will drive you from Kochi to Munnar, Kumily, and then to Alleppey where you will pay him for the past 5-day service and then get on your houseboat.
- After a few days on the boat, take a taxi for the short trip to the train station. The train will drop you off at Varkala Beach where you can take a tricycle to the cliffs to find your guesthouse. From Varkala Beach continue by train south to Thiruvananthapuram where you can stay a day or two before catching a flight out.
- It is quite safe and inexpensive to travel around India but you need to always employ your best negotiating skills to get lower prices.
☛ Read more: Blog posts of the Indian Subcontinent
Book by GlobeRovers, May 2013
“India – The Kerala Way” is a 215-page glossy book and includes 280 photographs from across Kerala State.
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Further reading
- Coming soon…
Blog post and photos by Peter who has been travelling almost full-time since 2005 and has been to over 122 countries. He visited several countries, such as Japan, more than 20 times. Peter is Editor-in-Chief and Publisher of GlobeRovers Magazine, an independent travel magazine focused on intrepid destinations.