The Republic of Iceland, located in the North Atlantic Ocean, has a population of almost 320,000 with Reykjavík as its largest city where approximately two-thirds of the population live. Reykjavík is a modern town with advanced infrastructure and when you’re here, it sure doesn’t feel like some far-off tiny island best known for its fire and ice.
As soon as you leave the highways and byways of Reykjavík, you will quickly sink into the tranquillity of the country-side where the fierce natural past of Iceland becomes evident. Located on the Mid-Atlantic Ridge, with the eastern part resting on the North American plate and the western part on the Eurasian plate, Iceland is volcanically and geologically active on a massive scale which has defined its landscape over the past five million years.
Iceland is an incredible country with so much to experience for nature lovers.
In fact, in the Pingvellir National Park, you can see the huge divide between the two plates which was formed as the plates moved apart, and is still slowly moving. Volcanic activity – that’s why you should be here!
I have driven entirely around the island’s famous Ring Road and often went off the main road with my 4-wheel drive vehicle to explore the unexplored. While driving is great, the best way to see Iceland is by hiking.
A good start to your adventure in Iceland is a few days in the lovely capital, Reykjavík. From here, take Route 1 (the Ring-Road) and make your way all around the island of Iceland.
Recommended places for staying over along the Ring-Road (anti-clockwise) would include Vik (in the far south), Höfn and Neskaupstaður or Seyðisfjörður along the east coast, Mývatn and Akureyri or Húsavík (pop into the Icelandic Phallological Museum in Húsavík), in the north, and then either down the central plateau back to Reykjavík, or up to the north-west to Vestfirðir in the Westfjords region.
A highly recommended route for a 10-day trip around the island is to cross through central Iceland from Akureyri to Reykjavík via Hvitar Lake, Strokkur
When you are done with the Langjökull glacier, head south to Geysir and the Gullfoss waterfalls. From Gullfoss go west to the Pingvellir National Park (Þingvellir in Icelandic) and back to Reykjavík.
Around Reykjavík make sure to spend a full day at the Blue Lagoon – Iceland’s premier geothermal outside natural spa. From Reykjavík take a pleasant daytrip up to the villages of Akranes and Borgarnes.
If you have more than 10 days, perhaps two weeks or more, then you may want to head west from Akureyri to the Westfjords rather than coming down through central Iceland via the Langjökull glacier. The Westfjords is a large peninsula in northwestern Iceland known for its small villages, fjords, cliffs, breeding birds, and mountainous coastline.
Stop at the Drangajökull glacier which is located in the north of the peninsula. Drive carefully as the roads of the Westfjords are quite winding and somewhat dangerous, especially in winter when roads may even be closed.
Based on my personal experience, here is my Top 12 list:
- The Blue Lagoon geothermal outside natural spa near Reykjavík.
- Waterfalls such as Gullfoss, Skogafoss, Seljalandsfoss, Svartifoss, Stjornarfoss, and Dettifoss. Look out for a small but high waterfall between Kirkjugólf and Stjornarfoss which on most days flows upwards rather than downwards. You may wonder why…
- Geysir Hot Springs for the geysir which gave us the name geysir.
- Vatnajokull National Park and the Jökulsárlón glacier. Check out the nearby black beach where you may see chunks of icebergs floating in the sea and washed out on the beach. A wonderful sight!
- Latrabjarg Bird Cliffs. During the summer breeding season, you will see thousands of seabirds including puffins on these remote cliffs.
- Landmannalaugar is a natural geothermal hot springs in southern Iceland which are surrounded by wilderness and snow-covered mountains near the volcano Hekla.
- Pingvellir National Park where you can clearly see the divide between the North American plate and the Eurasian plate.
- Snaefellsjokull National Park: a 700,000-year-old stratovolcano with a glacier covering its summit.
- Lake Myvatn area which offers many natural geothermal hot springs, extinct volcanoes, and the Myvatn lake. Also check out the Hverfjall Crater, Dimmuborgir, and the Krafla area which is the site of a massive volcanic eruption known as the Krafla Fires of 1975-1984 which spread lava over a large area.
- Walk right up to the massive Svínafellsjökull glacier for a closeup experience.
- Watch out for the lovely Icelandic horses, especially along the south-east and south-west coastlines.
- The incredible black beaches and dangerous cliffs on the small peninsula of Dyrhólaey near Vik in the south.
Don’t think twice about visiting Iceland. It is an amazing place.
A few things to keep in mind in your planning you Iceland trip
- Renting a 4-wheel-drive (4WD) Land Rover is a must. Standard cars are strictly forbidden from leaving the major Ring-Road which means you are not allowed to enter the rough dirt roads which often lead to the best spots! So, while a 4WD don’t come cheap (as the Icelanders just love to rip off tourists), it is a must. Pay the extra Icelandic Krona (although you likely will be quoted in Euros) and get the right wheels.
- If you travel on a limited budget, then take the bus, which is Ring-Road. Hike a few days and get back on the bus to the next spot. Continue bus-hopping and hiking until you get all around the island.
- Unless you go between October and May (winter season), book accommodation well ahead of time. While visiting in winter should be spectacular, the warmer months are much easier to get around. July / Aug would be the best, and really the only time for camping – so book huts well in advance on the camping trails otherwise you may have to set up your tent.
- Many tourists skip the interior which mainly consists of a plateau characterized by sand fields, mountains and glaciers. They do it because they don’t have a 4WD and because it requires some rough driving. This is an amazing part of Iceland.
- Avoid the many overpriced tourist attractions such as the overly expensive snowmobile rides on the glaciers, glacier walks, and boat rides. There’s enough to do-on-your-own than to fall for the rip-off organized travel adventures. Iceland is not a cheap destination and it seems as if the locals see all tourists as gold mines! Negotiate or walk away if the deal is clearly a rip-off.
- Be very careful all over Iceland. The roads can be very narrow, elevated along ditches, next to steep cliffs, and shrouded in fog. Dirt roads can be dangerous. Stay clear of the cliff edges and be careful around glaciers and volcanic active areas.
Church south of Akureyri Boiling hot pots at Hverir near Lake Mývatn Strokkur geysir Little turf Mickey Mouse house south of Héraðssandur Turf house at Borgarfjordur eystri, (Bakkageroi) Mountain pass north of Breiðdalsvík Between Þorgeirsstaðir and Djupavogshreppur, north of Höfn Stjornarfoss waterfall Glacier ice on the black sand beach at Jökulsárlón Jökulsárlón glacial lake, Situated at the head of the Breiðamerkurjökull glacier Skaftafellsjökull glacier Svínafellsjökull glacier Fjadrargljufur Canyon Fjadrargljufur Canyon Around Kirkjugólf Sólheimajökull (tongue of Mýrdalsjökull Glacier) Eyjarholar, south east near Vik Reynisdrangar (sea stacks), Dyrhólaey, Vík Reynisdrangar (sea stacks), Dyrhólaey, Vík Cliffs near the Black Sand Beach, Dyrhólaey near Vik Moss on the old lave, Leirhnjúkur, Mount Krafla, north of Lake Myvatn Icelandic Horses near Breiðdalsvík Around the Grótagjá caves near Mývatn Dettifoss, Jökulsargljufur National Park Steam vents at Hveravellir
Blog post and photos by Peter who has been travelling almost full-time since 2005 and has been to over 122 countries. He visited several countries, such as Japan, more than 20 times. Peter is Editor-in-Chief and Publisher of GlobeRovers Magazine, an independent travel magazine focused on intrepid destinations.