Formed by the eruption of ancient Mountain Prau, Dieng Plateau is a complex of calderas situated at about 2,000 metres above sea level, 130 km northeast of Yogyakarta city.
The plateau derives its name ‘dieng’ from the two Sanskrit words of ‘di’ meaning ‘place’ and ‘hyang’ meaning ‘gods’, so it is the ‘place of the gods’. Some folklore has it that the name refers to ‘strange beauty’ because the plateau has many beautiful places to visit. This is true, and visitors to the area can attest to this.
Dieng Plateau, a marshy highlands located 2,090 metres above sea level, is a perfect getaway from the heat and bustle of Yogyakarta City.
Attractions can be grouped into ancient temple ruins, volcanic activity, volcanic lakes and mountains, and rice terraces.
Why travel to the Dieng Plateau?
- The low-down: The Dieng Plateau is about 120km northwest of Yogyakarta and makes a pleasant drive through the hills up to the cool highlands. The views of nearby Mount Sundoro and Mount Merapi in a distance are spectacular. Combined with the green terraced landscapes, ancient temple-ruins, steaming vents with boiling waters, and superb hiking makes it a trip not to miss.
- The brightest highlight? The cool climate of the highlands is a great attraction during the hot season. Cycle around the area and stop at the many attractions, in
particular, the obscure ancient stupas tucked away in the farmlands. - Intrepid destination? Most tourists and travellers heading north of Yogyakarta only as far as Borobudur temple. Few actually make it up to the Dieng Plateau though encountering the odd tourist bus is not impossible.
- Globerovers score (10 is highest): Its an interesting area to visit if you want to see the lesser touristy ancient temple ruins and a volcanic active area. We enjoyed the Dieng Plateau and give it a score of 7.
The drive from Yogyakarta to Dieng Plateau is invigorating, especially as you get closer to the steep roads up to the plateau with the cool thin air.
On the eastern side of the plateau are several temple ruins worth visiting. These include Candi (temple) Bima, Candi Setyaki, Candi Gatotkaca, Candi Arjuna, and further to the north is Candi Dwarawati. All four of these temple ruins are of similar size and stature.
While incomparable to the Prambanan or Borobudur temples, they are so unimposing, standing in the middle of the rice fields, that the location is almost more impressive than the small temples themselves.
Dating back to between the 7th and 8th centuries, these Hindu temples are among the oldest known standing stone structures in Central Java. Originally, there used to be many more than the few we can see today, with some estimates ranging between three to four hundred. Some of these temples, such as Arjuna, found by a British explorer in 1814, used to be in the middle of a lake. By draining the lake, the temple was exposed and later reconstructed.
Stop at Tuk Bimo Lukar fountain, located in the same area as the temples. This ancient bathing spring is considered holy as it is the origin of the Serayu River which flows from northeast to southwest over Java Island and into the Indian Ocean, over a distance of 181 km.
To the south of Tuk Bimo Lukar lies Telaga Warna, the “colourful lakes”. The surrounding natural forests create a mystical atmosphere, which is sometimes accompanied by a white mist that envelops the area. The name of the lake is derived from the natural phenomenon that causes its waters to fluctuate from green to yellow to blue-purple, and sometimes all colours of the rainbow at once! This phenomenon occurs due to the high sulphur content, so depending on the position of the sun it reflects a variety of colours.
Drive up into the hills where you can climb a wooden lookout tower for great views over the lakes.
For the hot sulphur lakes and steam vents, head south to Kawah Sikidang, or northwest to Kawah Sileri, or even further northwest to Kawah Candradimuka.
The latter is far from the other attractions and hard to access, so it is often skipped by travellers. The tiny road leading up to Kawah Candradimuka is a difficult one and should only be attempted on foot, or with a strong four-wheel drive. Even a motorbike is not advisable unless you have a powerful scrambler. Once there, the rewards are outstanding! A narrow flight of stairs leads down past lush ferns and into the crater where you will find two boiling pits of water: the biggest pit often boiling so vigorously that it ejects water high into the air.
The power of the steam vents and bubbling boiling waters can be frightening. What makes this a special place is that it’s mostly void of people. It’s you and raw nature side by side. Sometimes you have to hold your breath when moving around to prevent breathing in the sulphurous smoke. Do not slip and slide or you will become softly cooked soup.
Get close to raw nature with bubbling mud pools and steaming vents.
The bubbling waters here are fierce and they are right next to the footpath among the lush growing ferns. A sudden and intensive outburst of boiling water can cause severe damage to all life in the vicinity, including yourself. So, walk carefully and pray for the best!
Kawah Sileri is a peaceful steaming giant! A smoking crater filled with gently boiling water and eerily drifting steam. However, be warned as this sleeping giant had a sudden steam-driven explosion (phreatic eruption) during July 2017 which injured several people, some of who were hospitalized with severe burns.
Without any warning, Sileri ejected a column of steam, gasses, and mud, which fell up to 50 metres from the lake. Sadly, the rescue helicopter crashed, killing the eight people on board. A similar but larger eruption occurred here in September 2009 affecting an area of 100 metres radius. As with any area of volcanic activity, we are taking a massive risk to get close to the source, as sudden over-activity can occur without warning.
If you still desire more volcanic activity with steam vents and strong sulphur emissions, drive over to Kawah Sikidang. This volcanic crater has ample steaming vents and frantically bubbling mud ponds. Hold your breath as you walk around, as the sulphurous smoke can be intense. Exercise caution as there are few guard rails to keep you from slipping off the trails and into the boiling waters. Don’t become soup!
Arguably the highlight of a trip to Dieng Plateau, and a good way of saying goodbye to this beautiful part of Central Java, is to wake up early in the morning and set out at 4 am into the dark to climb Sikunir Hill near Sembungan village. From the village, it is about a 30-minute steep hike up the stairs to the top of Sikunir Hill. Here you will wait with a small but dedicated crowd for sunrise over the smoke-puffing Gunung Sindoro volcano.
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On a clear morning, look east into the rising sun and you will see both active Merapi and dormant Merbabu volcanoes. Even in the wee hours of the morning, the many friendly food vendors along the hike up Sikunir Hill provide a welcoming aroma. Try the wok-fried locally grown baby potatoes!
A few more photos of the Dieng Plateau
More of Indonesia:
Blog post and photos by Peter who has been travelling almost full-time since 2005 and has been to over 122 countries. He visited several countries, such as Japan, more than 20 times. Peter is Editor-in-Chief and Publisher of GlobeRovers Magazine, an independent travel magazine focused on intrepid destinations.