Kyrgyzstan is one of the world’s best-kept secrets and a grossly underrated travel destination! It is a pleasant and safe country with, arguably, the most hospitable people in the world. It’s a great destination for nature lovers as it offers snow-capped mountains, raging rivers, glacial lakes, green jailoos with yurts and horses, and of course quaint villages with cozy guesthouses that serve tasty local cuisine – all available at very reasonable prices.
One of the finest experiences in Kyrgyzstan is mountain trekking – and no place is more stunning than the Teskey Ala-Too Range of the Tian Shan mountains.
We start our hike with a visit to Jeti-Ögüz, and then proceed to the small settlement of Ushchel’ye Karakol from where we hike up to the Ala-Kul glacial lake and then down to the hot springs of Altyn Arashan. We then return to the town of Karakol at the eastern reaches of the immense Lake Issyl Kul.
Why do Trekking to Ala-Kul Lake?
- The low-down: Kyrgyzstan is mostly unspoiled and undiscovered by travellers. Its lakes and mountains offer raw nature with stunning mountain scenery and high altitude turquoise glacial lakes. The hike from Ushchel’ye Karakol to Ala-Kul glacial lake and then down to Altyn Arashan’s hot springs is an invigorating experience.
- The brightest highlight: The entire hike is spectacular, though the cherry on the cake is arriving at Ala-Kul Lake, and if you can tolerate the very cold water, take a swim. Even better, wait until the end of the hike for the hot springs at Altyn Arashan.
- Intrepid destination: Much of Kyrgyzstan is off-the-beaten-track so the entire country is heaven to those who like to travel far away from mainstream tourism.
- Globerovers score (10 is highest): Kyrgyzstan is awesome and has so much to offer the outdoor adventure traveller. Can’t give it less than 9 out of 10.
Jeti-Ögüz
Just 25 km from Karakol town in a southwestern direction is a lush valley with some striking red sandstone rock formations known as the “seven bulls of Jeti-Ögüz.”
This unique geological formation of sheer cliffs is composed of tertiary (66 million to 2.6 million years ago) red conglomerates – a rock consisting of individual fragments within a fine-grained matrix that have become cemented together. The rock formations here resemble seven bulls and are underscored by a legend about how the rocks were formed.
The red cliffs resemble the seven bulls and an unfaithful wife in an old legend.
And so the legend goes… “A Kyrgyz Khan stole the wife of another Khan, who then sought advice from a ‘wise man’ about how he could take his revenge. The wise man advised the Khan that he should kill his wife and give the body to his rival – ‘Let him own a dead wife, not a living one.’ The Khan then arranged a feast where he sat next to his stolen wife. As nine bulls were being slaughtered as part of a ritual, he took out his knife and stabbed her in the chest. From her heart gushed blood which carried away the bulls down the valley where they came to a rest and became the cliffs…”
Nearby across the road is another interesting rock formation which resembles a “broken heart.” Legend has it that it resembles the heart of a beautiful woman who died of a broken heart after two suitors killed each other fighting over her love.
Further up the valley along the Jeti-Ögüz river are a few jailoos with yurts and horses in the summer. Keep walking until you find your dream location and then just drop in at a cluster of yurts and ask if one is available for the night. Stay for a night or more, go horseback riding or just hiking around the beautiful mountains.
Trekking to Ala-Kul and Altyn Arashan
Now that you have done the jailoos, yurts, and horses, another highlight of Kyrgyzstan is awaiting on the southeastern edge of Lake Issyk-Kul. With all the necessities such as a tent, hiking gear, gas stove and a guide arranged in Karakol town, head east to Ushchel’ye Karakol from where the four to six-day mountain trekking trip starts which will take you through forested mountain ranges, snow-capped peaks and steep passes. The hike goes up to the Ala-Kul glacial lake, located high in the Teskey Ala-Too Range of the Tian Shan mountains at an altitude of 3,500 m (11,483 ft) above sea level.
The strenuous trek goes up to Ala-Kul lake and glacier, and then down to soothing hot springs in the Altyn-Arashan valley.
The alpine meadows are beautiful with the profusion of flowers and lush grass. Look out for a few waterfalls and don’t miss the Golden Eagles among several bird species that live in the area.
While the trekking paths are generally in good condition, don’t attempt to do the trekking without a knowledgeable local guide. Over the rocks and gravel the path easily disappears and you may get lost!
You will need to hike about five to seven hours a day with a daily altitude gain of about 600 metres. Don’t exceed this daily gain as you may get hypobaropathy (altitude sickness).
While trekkers worth their stripes should carry their own belongings, it would be a great relief for yourself to hire a local porter. Go ahead and treat yourself by hiring your own porter and in the process ploughing much needed money into the local economy.
Upon completion of this strenuous trekking, relax for a day or two at one of the basic hot springs in the Altyn-Arashan valley, before heading back to Karakol town where you will appreciate the comforts of a nice soft bed, warm meals, and a hot shower.
Karakol Town
In Karakol town don’t miss the wooden Russian Orthodox Holy Trinity Cathedral which was completed in 1895. This beautiful wooden church was built without a single nail and has a magnificent facade and an ornate and gaudy altar inside. If visiting in late August, try one of the fruits of the old apple trees in the church grounds. Karakol also boasts a Sunday livestock market which is a good place to see remnants of the traditional nomadic rural life of Kyrgyzstan.
☛ Read more: Blog Posts of Central Asia
Blog post and photos by Peter who has been travelling almost full-time since 2005 and has been to over 122 countries. He visited several countries, such as Japan, more than 20 times. Peter is Editor-in-Chief and Publisher of GlobeRovers Magazine, an independent travel magazine focused on intrepid destinations.