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Samarkand, the Uzbek Scholarly City

by Peter Steyn - Editor, GlobeRovers
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Ulugbek Medressa (left), Tilla-Kari Medressa (middle), Sher Dor Medressa (right), Samarkand, Uzbekistan
Ulugbek Medressa (left), Tilla-Kari Medressa (middle), Sher Dor Medressa (right)

Close to the border with Tajikistan, with a population of over 300,000, Samarkand is the second-largest city in Uzbekistan after the capital city Tashkent.

We are exploring the Uzbek city of Samarkand, known as “Uzbekistan’s Scholarly City” as the many ancient medressa can attest.

Along with Bukhara (and a few other Middle Eastern cities), Samarkand is also one of the oldest continuously inhabited cities in the world.


Why travel to Samarkand?

  • The low-down: The city of Samarkand (Samarqand) lies on the ancient Silk Road which is a must-visit if you follow the route, and interested in its wealth of mausoleums, mosques, and notably its madrasas.
  • The brightest highlight? The Shah-i-Zinda necropolis as well as the Registan which consists of the Ulugh Beg Madrasah (1417–1420), Sher-Dor Madrasah (1619–1636), and the Tilya-Kori Medressa (1646–1660).
  • Intrepid destination? Unless you visit in the heat of the summer, it’s not exactly an intrepid destination. However, it can into one once you head out of town such as the Imam Al-Bukhari to the north. 
  • Globerovers score (10 is highest): I can give Samarkand a solid 7, as long as you stay long enough in town to explore all the nooks and cranny’s away from the tourist trails. Choose the right season to be comfy yet not peak time!

The Conquerors

Just like other great cities in the region, Samarkand was conquered by Alexander the Great in 329 BC when it was known by the Greeks as Maracanda. Alexander ransacked and destroyed much of the city. 

Marco Polo described Samarkand as “a very large and splendid city…” Then came Alexander the Great who ransacked and destroyed much of this “splendid city.”

Fortunately, during the Hellenic period, the city recovered and even flourished thanks to the Greeks’ superior masonry and other creative initiatives. 

Then came the Mongols and the fearless Genghis Khan, followed by another Mongol conqueror named Khan Baraq. It took many decades to recover from these destroyers.

The Registan, Samarkand, Uzbekistan
The Registan clockwise from left: Ulugh Beg Madrasah (1417–1420), Tilla-Kari Madrasah (1646–1660), Sher-Dor Madrasah (1619–1636)
Tilla-Kari Madrasa, Samarkand, Uzbekistan
Tilla-Kari Madrasah, Samarkand

Situated on the Silk Road, Samarkand was described by Marco Polo as a “very large and splendid city” and he also wrote interesting tales about the Christian churches of the city.

Fast forward to more recent times: Samarkand city came under Russian rule in 1868 and has been under the Soviets for much of the time since then.


Architectural Wonders

Thanks to its rich history, some interesting architecture can still be seen today. While the city’s main sightseeing areas are a lot more dispersed than those in Khiva and Bukhara, they are still within walking distance for travellers who don’t mind the legwork.

Shah-e-Zinda, Samarkand, Uzbekistan
Shah-e-Zinda

Arguably the most interesting is the Shah-i-Zinda necropolis (meaning “the living King”) which is an ensemble that includes several mausoleums and other ritual buildings dating from the 9th to 14th, as well as the 19th centuries. The ensemble comprises of the lower, middle and upper levels which are connected by four-arched domed passages. Beyond the upper level is a very interesting graveyard shared by many ethnic groups indicating the city’s cosmopolitan history.

The Russian section of the graveyard has some of the most impressive gravestones complete with brilliant stone-carved busts and full figure statues.

Another highlight in the city is the ensemble of three major buildings in a U-shape arrangement: The Ulugbek Madrassa, Tilla-Kari Madrassa, and the Sher Dor Madrassa.

Also, don’t miss the impressive Gur-e-Amir Mausoleum, as well as a few smaller sites such as the Rukhobod Mausoleum, Bibi-Khanym Mosque, and the Bibi-Khanym Mausoleum.

Gur-e-Amir Mausoleum, Samarkand, Uzbekistan
Gur-e-Amir Mausoleum

One of the best markets in Central Asia is the bustling Siyob Bazaar. Stock up on fresh, herbs and spices, breads, fresh fruits and vegetables. The grapes, peaches and both the yellow- and red figs are locally grown, succulent, and very affordable. 

Samarkand sure has a lot of charm!

Dried fruits at the Siob (Siyob) Bazaar, Samarkand, Uzbekistan
Dried fruits at the Siob (Siyob) Bazaar

 ☛ Read more: 10 Great experiences in Uzbekistan


A few more photos of Samarkand and area


More posts from Uzbekistan

Also check the full-length feature article of Central Asia, including Uzbekistan, Kazakhstan, Tajikistan, Afghanistan, and Kyrgyzstan in GlobeRovers Magazine July 2014.



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4 comments

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Samarkand, the Uzbek Scholarly City – GlobeRovers

Danial (Dan On The Road) July 23, 2019 - 2:14 pm

Samarqand is really gorgeous and evokes an old world feel to it, especially the mosques and madrasahs!

GlobeRovers July 23, 2019 - 2:29 pm

Thanks Dan. Totally agree. I wish to return one day soon.

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