We take the infamous Georgian Military Highway from Tbilisi north to the villages of Gergeti and Kazbegi just south of the Russian border in search of the church with the most stunning location. This is the Tsminda Sameba Church. Standing high on a hill, in the shadows of the (cloud-covered) majestic Mount
The long ride from Tbilisi along the 210 km long Georgian Military Highway goes through beautiful mountain landscapes dotted with a castle, monasteries, churches, monuments, fortresses, and quaint villages. The road goes all the way up north to Vladikavkaz, the capital of the Republic of North Ossetia–Alania, in southern Russia. This was the traditional route used by both invaders and traders throughout the early ages.
First used by the Russian military in 1769, the road has been upgraded over the centuries and stayed mostly under Russian control. While the road was paramount in the economic development of the Caucasus region in the 19th century, its importance has significantly diminished during the late 20th century.
In 2006 Russia closed the border for seven years and eventually reopened it on specific demand from Armenia. The border crossing remains open, but long border delays can be expected due to the time required to process and inspect vehicles, mainly on the Russian side.
The road on the Georgian side is not short of spectacular scenery. Rolling hills and snow-covered peaks decorate the scenery for most of the way.
The road follows the flow of the Aragvi River, all the way to the Kazbegi National Park on the slopes of the Caucasus Mountain Range which forms the Russia-Georgia border.
The road passes by the 13th-century Ananuri Castle on the shores of the turquoise Zhinvali Reservoir. Further north lies the Gudauri ski resort in the Gudauri Recreational Area. At about 125 km north of Tbilisi, on the right-hand side of the road, is the Russia–Georgia Friendship Monument constructed in 1983 to celebrate the bicentennial of the Treaty of Georgievsk and ongoing friendship between Georgia and the then Soviet Russia. The inside paintings depict scenes from Georgian and Russian history.
Shortly before the Russian border, on the south side of the mighty Caucasus Mountains, lies the Kazbegi National Park and the villages of Kazbegi and Gergeti.
At an altitude of 2,170 m, and with Mouth Kazbek rising behind it, you will see the 14th-century church of Tsminda Sameba. Also known as the Gergeti Trinity Church, this is a photo opportunity not to be missed! Hike up to the church for stunning views!
Pedro Richardson at the travel blog “Travel with Pedro” have this recommendation: “Kazbegi is definitely one of the best places to visit in Georgia and its relative proximity to Tbilisi makes it particularly popular. Svaneti, also on the border with Russia – a border that is closed for locals and tourists alike – is another amazing region to visit if you want more beautiful scenery and rich culture. It is easily reachable from Batumi and has many hiking trails and picturesque villages”.
Pedro continues to explain that “Even though the route stretches all the way to Vladikavkaz, virtually anyone travelling on this route, will go only as far as the village of Stepantsminda, also known as Kazbegi. Not that this is an issue, since the Kazbegi area is, with no doubt, the climax of the trip”.
HOW TO GET HERE:
Its easy to get up to Kazbegi on your own, so no need to take an expensive trip. The cheapest way is to get on a regular marshrutka (shared taxi or a small van) from Didube station in Tbilisi. However, I highly recommend you arrange a private car or a normal taxi willing to spend the day with you. This means you can stop wherever you want. There’s a lot to see on the way, including the Zhinvali reservoir, Ananuri fortress and church, the Soviet-Georgian Friendship Memorial. Also make sure to stop at the Sveti-Tskhoveli Cathedral in Mtskheta, though that should be a separate half-day trip.
Jill, from Jack and Jill Travels, offers this piece of wisdom: “If I were to do it again (and if I were suicidal and had more money), I’d get a rental car and drive the bendy mountain road myself. There were so many side valleys worthy of exploration, so many more spots worth stopping for. But even without a private car, driving up the Georgian Military Highway is so easy to do it’d be a crime not to make it here when visiting Georgia”.
Stay in the Kazbegi area for a few nights and hike to waterfalls, glaciers, and take long mountain hikes. It is truly a beautiful area – all year round.
Blog post and photos by Peter who has been travelling almost full-time since 2005 and has been to over 122 countries. He visited several countries, such as Japan, more than 20 times. Peter is Editor-in-Chief and Publisher of GlobeRovers Magazine, an independent travel magazine focused on intrepid destinations.