Our journey of Yunnan’s Tibetan Plateau starts by flying into Lijiang, though a good alternative is to start in Kunming, the capital of Yunnan Province. From Kunming, it is a 520 km drive to the northwest to reach the historic Old Town of Lijiang. From Lijiang, we travel 88 km north to the Tiger Leaping Gorge. After hiking around the river and canyons we head 110 km further north to Shangri-La in the northwestern uplands of Yunnan. After spending a few days exploring the city with its cobble-stone alleys and monasteries, we continue 180 km further north to the mountain village of Yubeng – which is reached by hiking through the mountains. That’s in a nutshell – but believe me, there is a hell of a lot of nut in this shell…
The Old Towns of both Lijiang and Shangri-La are truly magnificent with their cobble-stone alleys and stone-tile roofs. The mountain scenery between our starting and endpoint is stunning, to say the least. This is a journey never to forget!
Why Travel to Yunnan’s Tibetan Plateau?
- The low-down: The historic towns and mountain scenery of Yunnan’s Tibetan Plateau is nothing short of magnificent. Add to this the interesting cultures of the indigenous Naxi and Tibetan people, as well as their exquisite cuisines, and you have a trip never to forget!
- The brightest highlight: While the entire journey is packed with highlights, the end of our journey is Yubeng Village. This small village is surrounded by show-covered mountains in winter and is only reached via a 5-hour hike through the mountains. Tough trip but very rewarding!
- Intrepid destination: Absolutely intrepid. You will come across few travellers except for the Old Towns of Lijiang and Shangri-La which are normally overrun by Chinese tourists. Don’t even consider to visit during high season or during national holidays. A new road has been built along this route so this will increase tourism to the north.
- Globerovers score (10 is highest): While the people are generally not friendly, and even rude, at least for their culture, architecture, and the incredible nature, I’ll give it a score of 8.5 out of 10.
Table of Contents
The Real Tibet
Tibet’s three original provinces are U-Tsang, Kham and Amdo. The people in these regions all consider themselves Tibetan, although each has a strong identity and different dialects of Tibetan are used. Under China’s occupation, Tibet has been divided up, renamed and incorporated into Chinese provinces, with little reference to the original borders between Tibet’s provinces. When China refers to Tibet, it means the Tibet Autonomous Region (TAR), which includes only U-Tsang and part of Kham. The remainder of Kham was divided between Sichuan and Yunnan Chinese provinces. Amdo was divided between Gansu, Sichuan and Qinghai provinces. The historical territory of Tibet would make it the world’s 10th largest nation by geographical area.
Our journey goes through Yunnan province which has a strong Tibetan flavour, even though many other groups have been living here for millennia.
Lijiang Old Town
We start our journey in the town of Lijiang by flying in from Kunming, the capital of Yunnan Province. However, is it also possible to fly via Chengdu (Sichuan Province) and a few other Chinese cities such as Beijing and Shanghai.
When you ask Chinese travellers anywhere in China which province they most want to visit, “Yunnan” is most likely their answer. Whether you travel through the tropical south, the fertile central, the thermal-active west, or the mountainous north, Yunnan offers something for everyone.
While non-Chinese travellers still remain scarce in this part of the world, the Chinese are coming in droves from all over the nation – in particular during the summer holiday months. Fortunately, these mainly package tourists stay in the “party / shopping / food” towns such as Lijiang and Shangri-La with few venturing onto the unbeaten-paths.
Lijiang can be totally over-run by tourists and one can only wish to be here some 20 or 30 years ago to see the real town without the many tourists, tourist shops, and Karaoke bars. However, if you visit during low season and get away from the tourist alleys, you can still get a feel for the real traditional life. There is no shortage of temples and monasteries which add to the excitement of visiting this area.
China’s Yunnan province is home to many Tibetans with a very distinct Tibetan culture.
Lijiang is known for its historical Old Town (a UNESCO Heritage Site) with a history going back more than 800 years to the Song Dynasty at which time it was an important town at a confluence for trade along the old “tea horse road”. The town is known for its innovative system of waterways and bridges and is mainly occupied by the Nàxī (or Nakhi) people, one of China’s many minority groups. However, several other minority groups, as well as China’s largest ethnic group, the Han people, call Lijiang their home.
Spend at least two full days in the town of Lijiang to enjoy the sights of the old town such as the Naxi Orchestra, cosy guesthouses and restaurants, the good Yunnan food and all too vibrant (albeit somewhat annoying and kish) karaoke and open-bars.
Several musicians in the Lijiang Naxi Orchestra are over 80. Some of their instruments are hundreds of years old
Lijiang’s Black Dragon Pool is the main headwater of the Yushui River which goes through the Old Town of Lijiang. Legend has it that the gods of the Naxi people are living in the surrounding chestnut woods, beside the mouth of the springs, and behind the carved doors and even below the bridges. The springs come from the “god-protected” mountains and gather in this place and finally form the Black Dragon Pool. Afterwards, the water flows down a waterfall and becomes the Yuhe River. That is when there has been enough rain. Don’t be surprised to find the pools totally dried up.
When the pool is filled with water, the reflections of the Jade Dragon Snow Mountain in the water is so picturesque. Here you will also find the Moon-Embracing Pavilion which was originally built in the late Ming dynasty although the current structure is a reproduction from 1963 after a fire in 1950 destroyed the original. Next to it stands its white marble bridge across the pond.
Longshen Temple, also known as Dragon God Temple, was constructed by local Naxi people in 1737 and is located to the east of the park.
The threefold overlap Five-Phoenix Tower (Wufeng Tower) was built during the Ming Dynasty (1601), and today is located at the north end of the park.
Black Dragon Pool is located at the foot of Elephant Hill in the scenic Jade Spring Park, or Yuquan Park.
Black Dragon Pool, Lijiang Black Dragon Pool, Lijiang
Visit Lijiang during the shoulder-months such as February and March when it is considered too cold for travel by the locals. November and even December should be less crowded too. While based in Lijiang, make a pleasant daytrip to the Jade Dragon Snow Mountain, also known as the Yulong Snow Mountains.
Take the impressive cable car to the top of the mountain (4,636 m), and before leaving the area, go watch the Lijiang Impressions Show which is a masterpiece of work directed by Chinese artist Zhang Yi Mou (who also directed the 2008 Olympic Games opening show). This breathtaking show of dancing and excellent choreography employs about 500 actors and 100 horses in a 360-degree open-air theatre stage with the Snow Mountains as a back-drop.
Tiger Leaping Gorge
After a few days of strolling the cobble-stone alleys of Lijiang and nearby villages (all with their own entrance fees) you will be glad to leave these touristy places for a few days of solace when hiking the northern mountains.
Head 88 km north, past the Yulong Snow Mountain, to the scenic canyon of the Tiger Leaping Gorge along the Jinsha River, a primary tributary of the upper Yangtze River. Spend two or three days hiking in the mountains and canyons and down to the narrow Yangtze River as it rushes through the gorge. This is one of the deepest and most spectacular river canyons in the world, so don’t miss it.
According to legend, the name comes from a hunted tiger escaping by jumping across the river at the narrowest point (25 metres (82 ft) wide), using the rock in the middle. Nowadays the river is much narrower at this point.
It is hard to believe that this same river will stretch several kilometres wide at the Yangtze River Delta near Shanghai before it flows into the East China Sea.
Tiger Leaping Gorge The scary ladder to heaven
Shangri-La
From the Tiger Leaping Gorge, take a 5-hour bus ride north to the town of Zhongdian, also known as Shangri-La. Shangri-La is well known for its Old Town – though smaller (and less crowded) than Lijiang. At an altitude of 3,000 metres, the town is less touristy than Lijiang as it is more difficult to reach (in particular via the very bad roads) and is generally colder than Lijiang to the south. However, during my last visit, a new road was under construction so bad road won’t any longer deter tourists.
The town’s inhabitants are mainly Tibetan which gives it a whole different flavour than Lijiang. Good Tibetan restaurants abound in the old town and several scenic spots can be visited on day trips.
The Old Town of Shangri-La has many restaurants, old buildings and shops. Stroll along the cobble-stone alleys and get lost.
Just outside Shangri-La visit the impressive Songzhanlin Monastery which is a large, sprawling and well-preserved lamasery built in the 1700s by the 5th Dalai Lama.
As is the custom nowadays in China, steep entrance fees are being charged at any place considered a “scenic spot”. This includes old towns, villages, mountains, rivers, hiking paths, ladders, famous rocks, a bent in the road, and the list goes on and on. Villages regarded as “scenic spots” do require an entrance fee, and also painfully offers an endless number of tourist shops selling the usual tourist junk. My advice is to avoid any designated “scenic spots” and get off the tourist trails to where you can experience real life in small-town China.
Yubeng Village
After two or three days in Zhongdian (Shangri-La), rent a 4-wheel drive vehicle with driver for the five to six-hour drive north to the town of Deqin – close to the Tibetan border. Pass Deqin and head higher up to the small town of Feilai-si and stay for the night (after paying a hefty “entrance fee” to this dull little town).
If the weather is good, get up early to see sunrise over the summit of Mount Miacimu (6,054 m).
Get on a minibus (or use your private car and driver) for a 90 minute bumpy ride down the gorge and over the narrow Mekong river. Yes, this is the same Mekong river which is so mighty big in southern Vietnam. Your long hike starts about 30 minutes after crossing the Mekong.
This is a strenuous hike over the mountains and if you get a lot of rain or snow, the path becomes very muddy and slippery. Expect at least a few spectacular slips, slides and falls. Make sure to bring your two hiking sticks. Four legs are better than two!
You’ll be glad to eventually descent into the little isolated and small Tibetan village of Yubeng.
There are no roads to Yubeng and all supplies come in on donkey back over the mountains. Don’t expect anything luxurious – and that includes a nice chocolate bar which seems like gold in this little forgotten village. Accommodation is limited to very basic rooms (most with an awesome view of the lower village and the mountains). Stay in the upper village and make sure the hot water works before you pay and settle in.
You will live off locally grown veggies and home-made noodles, and a freshly slaughtered goat if you are lucky. Avoid beef and pork – or any meat for that matter. Pork is mainly slices of fat, large chunks of raw meat is partly dried-out and not so appetizing to even look at.
As is custom at most Tibetan restaurants, you will enter via the kitchen to decide exactly what food you want to be cooked. Once you look at the chunks of raw half-dry unrefrigerated meat, you’ll promise yourself to become a vegetarian right away!
There are many lovely hikes around the village, including the so-called “base-camp”, “ice-lake”, “sacred-waterfall”, etc. The problem with traveling in this area is to choose the right month. From December to April it can be very snowy which means hiking is difficult and dangerous. Most paths will be inaccessible.
Even though you will pay entrance fees to these “scenic spots”, its obvious that none of the money is used to maintain the paths.
Summer months are very rainy, which makes paths very muddy and tough to hike. Frankly, the safest and most comfortable hiking season may only be early May and probably November.
When you’re done with the village and need some better food, a nice bed, and clean body, get out of Yubeng and head back to Feilai-si, Deqin, and back south to Shangri-la from where you can fly out to your next destination.
Leaving from Yubeng, two routes return to the starting point of your hike. Both are scenic. The lower path goes via the river and is quite dangerous after rain or snow. The mountain route is more safe but be ready for a tough hike over the mountain on slippery paths when it is raining or snowing.
Enjoy the hiking and Tibetan hospitality of northern Yunnan province.
However, just like me, you will probably say “Been there done it, next please” and “Once is enough!”
Yunnan Traveller Tips
Some recommendations for travelling in Yunnan province:
- Be prepared to pay entrance fees at any place which can even remotely be described as a “scenic spot”. This includes villages, mountain viewpoints, hiking paths, footbridges, ladders up the hill, monasteries, etc. Hefty camera fees also apply at monasteries, in particular for video cameras.
- Carefully plan to hike here only in the dry season. Most of the hiking paths are along dangerous cliffs and GlobeRovers would not like to see some of our readers disappear into the abyss.
- This is not Southeast Asia so don’t expect a land of smiles.
- Bring along your hiking gear such as hiking sticks. They are very handy along these treacherous paths.
- It is possible to take public transportation (buses and taxis) for this entire journey. For some sections, you may want to hire a car and driver for the day to visit monasteries and other areas outside of town.
- A private car and driver are highly recommended in northern Yunnan. It allows greater freedom to get wherever you want to. Much of this is undergoing major road construction but it may be completed by the time you arrive.
- Note that as far as I know, still, the only way to reach Yubeng Village is via a 3-5 hour hike through the mountain which is an exhilarating experience.
☛ Read more: Blog posts of China
Blog post and photos by Peter who has been travelling almost full-time since 2005 and has been to over 122 countries. He visited several countries, such as Japan, more than 20 times. Peter is Editor-in-Chief and Publisher of GlobeRovers Magazine, an independent travel magazine focused on intrepid destinations.